The most expensive restaurants and sushi bars buy up the highest quality tuna. Before he became a tour guide, Toby was a sushi chef so he knows his tuna. He bends over a beautiful fish and points to the part of the tuna most prized by aficionados-the belly.We watch the action until the last tuna is sold. A large fish flown in from Spain sells for $5,000. Toby tells me, before the financial bubble burst, the same fish would have cost two or three times as much. One fish even sold for $45,000.

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