Just around the corner is the Jerusalem Print Workshop, located in a classic Ottoman building that offers contemporary exhibits on the ground floor and hosts classes and open studios one flight up. Arrange to meet the director, Arik Kilemnik, if you can―he’s a font of knowledge about the institution and the diverse neighborhood that surrounds it. A visit to the nearby Museum on the Seam, a short walk north from Musrara, won’t give you a respite from Jerusalem’s conflicts, but it will illuminate them with its progressive, cross-cultural exhibits―curator Raphie Etgar actively solicits participation from Palestinian and other Arab artists, with varying degrees of success.
Since these museums are small, you can easily hit all three in a day. Make a pit stop for lunch at Ikermawi, just across from the Old City’s Damascus Gate (Haneveem 2 is the street address). This unassuming spot is a mainstay for local workers with some of the best hummus in the city. And don’t miss the newest player in Jerusalem contemporary arts, Yaffo 23, a Bezalel Academy–sponsored gallery that’s located on the third floor of the city’s central post office. Director Roy Brand, who’s also on the philosophy faculty at Sarah Lawrence College, has already made a splash with several innovative exhibits―many involving artists from all over the world―in the minimal white space.
The Jerusalem arts scene flourishes in the summer with a series of major festivals: the two-week Israel Festival in May; the prestigious Jerusalem Film Festival in July; and the summer-long Jerusalem Season of Culture.
Park Play
Jerusalem’s Gan Sacher is everything a big-city park should be, a sprawling oasis for year-round casual recreation and big events like concerts and sports tournaments. For excellent people-watching, visit the great lawn―groups from both sides of the city and all walks of life congregate here for barbecues and soccer matches. You’ll also find two playgrounds, tennis and basketball courts, and a skateboard park, as well as long, looping trails for running or walking.
Half a mile east is the much smaller and more serene Independence Park, where you can take in a free yoga class every Wednesday at 5:00 (in colder months the class moves indoors). For a solitary afternoon on a blanket with your book, check out the Wohl Rose Park, in the shadow of the Supreme Court building, with pristine lawns and manicured rose gardens.
