Athens has come a long way since Greece’s first emergence as an empire in the days of antiquity. Refreshed and updated by playing host to the 2004 Olympic Games, the city is now a pleasant mix of ancient marvels and modern comforts.
Hotels have been redone, trolley lines added, and grand promenades cleaned and polished.
The subway system is now fast and convenient, linking previously hard to reach sights and neighborhoods, and making intra-city travel a breeze for visitors.
However, no coat of fresh paint will ever cover the special reminders of Athens’s great legacy. The city is still filled with the same mulberry and olive trees that lined the streets in old-world Greece.
Remnants of ancient columns blend in with modern buildings around every corner. And within this blend of old and new, the city is teeming with hidden gems and secret spots that go beyond the traditional monuments and ruins.
ATHENIAN ADVENTURES
The legacy of Amalia, the first Queen of Greece can still be felt today with a visit to the National Gardens. This jungle-like space of winding paths, fountains, and wandering peacocks contains the remains of over 15,000 plants imported by the Queen during her reign, which began in 1837. The space also contains a botanical museum, a children’s play area, a duck pond, and a miniature zoo. Leof Vas Amalias 1, 210 721 1027
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The Kerameikos Cemetery and its accompanying museum, also known as the Oberlaender Museum, are located on the edge of central Athens, but are often overlooked by visitors. Stroll through the calm pathways lined with funerary monuments from the 4th and 5th centuries, and visit the grave sites of many notable classical Athenians. This site is also the location for the ancient walls of Athens and the Sacred Gate, used only by pilgrims using the sacred road on the annual procession from Eleusus. 148 Ermou St.
Though Athens is exploding with classical art, you can get a sense of more modern movements at the School of Fine Arts. The school is renowned for its exhibitions by recent graduates, and is a great way to see what up-and-coming young Greek artists are innovating and producing. Pireos 256, 210 480 1315
Once the blazing heat of the day subsides and the cool evening breeze sets in, it’s cinema time in Athens. Outdoor screenings take place in large open spaces—gardens, ruins and rooftops—during warm summer evenings. Visit the Aegli cinema in the Zappeion park (next to the National Garden) or Dexameni-Frame in Platia Dexamenis on Friday and Saturday evenings.
MUSEUM MADNESS
Though the Benaki Museum is known as one of the best in Athens (and shouldn’t be missed), many visitors overlook its sibling, the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art. It’s owned by the same infamous Antonis Benakis and housing an equally stunning collection of pieces. Benaki spent much of his life in Egypt during which time he collected most of the 6,000 pieces on display at the museum today. Ceramics, instruments, and artifacts from a diverse range of countries including Spain, India, Egypt, Turkey, and Iraq make this one of the most comprehensive collections you will find anywhere. Agion Asomation and Dipylou, 210 325 1311, www.benaki.gr
If you’re impressed by dazzling jewelry, visit Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum where 3,000 pieces of jewelry are on display to the delight of visitors. The museum was founded by the famous Greek jewelry designer by the same name and its collection contains pieces designed in ancient, Byzantine, and Cycladic styles. There is also a small boutique downstairs so you can bring a piece home with you. Karyatidon and Kalisperi 12, Makrygianni, 210 922 1044
The Museum of Traditional Greek Ceramics has been the focus of many a debate over the years. Originally located at the heart of Monastiraki Square, a former Turkish bazaar, the museum is set in the only remaining Ottoman-era mosque in Athens.
This fact alone has often provoked feelings of bitter resentment and led to various efforts to tear the structure down. Built in 1789, it is an architectural marvel that makes the museum worth visiting if only just to gain entry to the structure. The collection itself contains an impressive array of pieces from the second half of the 20th century. Areos 1, 210 324 2066
Another multipurpose gallery worthy of mention is the DESTE Foundation of Contemporary Art. Here, international and Greek artists display their work in the unique setting of an old paper warehouse. Painting, sculpture, and photography are most commonly the focus of the well-crafted exhibitions. Pmirou 8, Neo Psihiko, 210 672 9460
AFTERNOON IN KOLONAKI
For some high-end window shopping, put on your Prada and stroll through the hilly, winding streets of the district of Kolonaki. Here, international brand name stores mingle with the shops of treasured Athenian designers such as Aslanis, Nikos, and Filemon. Don’t miss the streets of Voukourestiou, Kanari, Milioni, and (if you really want to drool) the most expensive of them all, Anagnostopoulou.
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The Greek Costume Museum will provide you with some background on trends through the ages. This pint-sized museum is easy to miss, but contains a small history of clothing and fashion, as well as 25,000 dresses and accessories from all over the country. Examples of classical, Minoan, Byzantine, and traditional Greek fashions are all represented. Dimokritou 7, 210 362 9513
Afterward, take a break from the afternoon heat by joining the locals for an afternoon iced coffee on Platia Kolonaki, one of the most fashionable squares in Athens. Lined with BMWs, Porsches, and Jaguars, this is the place where high-powered businessmen and politicians mingle. Vie for a table outdoors at one of the many cafes to watch the bustle. Try the cappuccino freddo at Da Capo, rumored by locals to be the best around. Tsakalof 1, Platia Kolonaki, 210 360 2497
If you can resist shopping until you actually drop, there are some other great sights in Kolonaki you won’t want to miss. If you’re feeling up to the challenge, strap on your running shoes and embark upon the steep climb up Lycabettus Hill. Taller than even the Sacred Rock of the Acropolis, the view from the top is unmatched and worth the athletic feat it takes to get there. However, don’t sweat it if hiking is not your thing. There is also a funicular that runs throughout the day to carry visitors to the peak.
In addition to providing its daytime vista, this is also the site of Mt. Lycabettus Theater, which regularly plays host to a variety of famous international performers. The rocky amphitheater cut into the hill has a gift for naturally enhancing acoustics, and when you combine this with the stunning view of the cityscape glistening below in the night sky, it seems there can really be no venue more perfect. Check local papers for upcoming events. 210 928 2900
BEYOND SOUVLAKI
One of the most special dining traditions in Greece is one found at the Mezedopolion, where patrons can drink ouzo, a traditional anise-flavored spirit, paired with a sampling of small dishes created to satisfy the palate.
This experience is available nightly at To Ouzadiko, which claims to offer the largest selection of ouzos in Greece: 688 varieties to be exact. In addition, the restaurant’s owner says that he draws from a repertoire of 3,000 dishes including taramasalata, stewed octopus, nigella-seed flatbread, and smoked aubergine to accompany the spirit. Although the restaurant is oddly located in a deserted shopping mall, it is worth a trip. Make sure you don’t miss the drawings that adorn the walls, all of which were done informally by famous artists on their visits to the restaurant. Karneadou 25-29 and Alopekis 28-30, Kolonaki, 210 729 5484
For the ultimate taverna dining experience try Philippou which first opened its doors to hungry Athenians back in 1923. The hearty offerings here include casseroles, roasted meat dishes, and baked vegetables, and are sure to satisfy any palate. Outdoor seating is also available for those hot summer nights. Xenokratous 19, 210 721 6390
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Greece is known for its indulgent, super-sweet treats, often composed of a crispy phyllo pastry base and laden with rich honey syrup. (Baklava is the best known of the bunch.) Head to Kosmikon, beloved by locals since 1961, to get your fix. Although dozens of sweets are available here, the specialty is galakloboureko, composed of layers of phyllo filled with custard. Leof Ionias 104, Agios Nikolaos, 210 864 9124
BRINGING HOME A PIECE OF GREECE
You will want to stock up on pairs of sandals handcrafted by the famous Stavros Melissinos, known as the poet sandal-maker. His previous clients have included the Beatles, Sophia Loren, Jackie Onassis, and the entire 2004 Olympic team. Squeeze inside the small shop, choose a design, and have a pair fitted just for you by either Melissinos or his son. His designs draw their influence from Greek mythology and history, and are based on the styles worn by the ancient Greeks who once lived directly on the site of this shop. Ag Theklas Street #2, 210-3219247 /6938083805
Walk down almost any street in Athens and you’ll pass by Greek men twirling long strands of beads. These lucky charms, called worry beads or kombolois in Greek, are traditionally carried to diffuse stress and ease anxiety. They can be found throughout the city, and are made from a variety of materials including ivory, coral, shell, wood, and amber. For the best high-quality selection, visit the Komboloi Museum. Prices range from just a few dollars to several thousand depending on age and design. Omirou 39, Kolonaki
On Sunday mornings, wander through the Monastiraki Flea Market. The market, open from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. is packed full of unique antiques, quirky baubles, and anything else you could hope to find. Platia Auyssinias and surrounding area, metro: Monastiraki
COASTAL EXCURSION
In the summer take a trip out to Athens’s famous port of Piraeus, among the busiest in the Mediterranean. Take in the view with a walk along the seawall. Busy seafood restaurants line the promenade, perhaps the best of which is called Diasimos. Drying octopus hang from the ceiling, while bushels of fresh offerings are displayed proudly, making for a unique atmosphere. Its waterfront location attracts local Athenians and visitors alike, who come to savor traditional specialties such as whole fish grilled with olive oil and lemon. Akti Themistokleous 306-308, 210 451 4887.
Continuing further along the promenade will eventually bring you to Mikrolimano Harbor and Zea Marina, two smaller, more upscale spots to take in the view of the sea. Mikrolimano Harbor is lined with sun-drenched tavernas offering outdoor seating, and backed by a quaint neighborhood with winding streets and many hidden boutiques and shops. Zea Marina is the launch off point for smaller yacht excursions to the Greek Islands and beyond and is thus always buzzing with activity. Grab a table at the always hip Istioploiko, order a cold drink, and watch the action. Akti Koumoudourou, 210 413 4084
By Alix Proceviat for PeterGreenberg.com.
Correspondent Alix Proceviat’s got Europe covered. Check out her other articles on PeterGreenberg.com:
- Tis the Season for Escaping to Europe
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Vienna, Austria
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Dublin, Ireland
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Istanbul, Turkey
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Prague, Czech Republic
- Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide: Edinburgh, Scotland
Get more destination ideas in our Off-the-Brochure Travel Guide series.
