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A Walk Through A Khmer Rouge Holocaust Museum in Phnom Penh Cambodia

Asia, Cultural Immersion, Culture, Museums on June 12, 2009 4:29 pm

White Rose of remembranceAs Washington D.C. and the rest of the country was trying to make sense of the horrible shooting at the National Holocaust Museum, I was thousands of miles away, walking through an abandoned French school in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

It now houses the “Toul Sleng Genocide Museum.”

From 1975 to 1979, it was the center for torture and death in the capital city.

Those who survived the torture from the Khmer Rouge were then sent out to the killing fields, where they died. Many didn’t survive the torture, and more than 2,000 bodies were discovered at the “school” when the Khmer Rouge were overthrown by the Vietnamese army in 1979.

For anyone visiting Cambodia, this is a must stop. It is sobering. It is emotional.

But it is essential.

Check out pictures of Peter with some of the orphans of Cambodia and find out what you can do to help. 

The school compound represents a number of buildings — each was used for various forms of torture. In the courtyard, a wooden pole once used by students for chin ups and pull ups was turned into a torture machine and a makeshift gallows. And yes, waterboarding was used frequently.

In each room there are still instruments of torture and death left as they were found in 1979 — iron chains, shackles, electric wires. In almost every room, a glance towards the ceiling reveals large splatters of blood — not touched for more than 30 years.

Cambodia skulls
And in two of the buildings are displayed the last known photos of those who died. I remember visiting Dachau, the German concentration camp located outside of Munich.

I was struck immediately by the stacks of shoes and clothing worn by those who were ultimately killed. A similar stack of shirts and pants remains in the Cambodian genocide museum. Right next to those photos.

No one knows the exact number of people killed there, but a low estimate is more than 20,000.

“We must keep the memory of the atrocities committed on Cambodian soil alive,” said my guide, “so that we can continue to build a new, strong and compassionate country.”

I couldn’t agree more.

A word of warning: the Cambodians have kept the building much as they found it when the Khmer Rouge left.

It is a difficult visit even for those of us — myself included — who have covered wars and revolutions.

What I found most surprising is that so many in my group of volunteers from airline ambassadors — here to work with orphanages — had never seen the movie The Killing Fields.

Something tells me that Netflix is about to get more requests for that film than usual.

In a few hours, I fly to Bangkok to do my radio show, and more updates then.

By Peter Greenberg for Peter Greenberg.com.

For more from Peter, check out his Travel Detective Blog.

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Learn more about Museum Travel on PeterGreenberg.com.

Get more information about Peter’s radio show here.

  • Krista

    Thank you for sharing this. We have spent time at a lot of museums, but this one was special in that it wasn’t sterilized as all of the others have been. It is what it is, and we bare witness to that. I know of many people who skip over s-21 and the Killing Fields, feeling that perhaps it is too gruesome, but that is entirely the point. How can you understand without seeing? Hearing it obviously isn’t enough.

  • http://andyhayes.com Andy Hayes

    This is a very poignant place, without a doubt. We were there in February and had the pleasure of actually speak with (via our guide, a translator) the only living survivor of the camp who is still living in Phnom Pehn. (There are three of them left, but the other two live elsewhere). He visits the jail regularly and speaks with tourists and others. What an inspirational man – hard to believe what he went through *and* he’s the key witness for the current Khmer Rouge trials. Unbelievable.

    More here if you’re interested:
    http://andyhayes.com/cambodia-a-country-of-extremes

  • classifieds

    I went to the Holocaust Museum in Washington D.C. recently. One of the exhibits shows many shoes from people who died. There was an inscription near the shoes.
    I was really touched by the inscription, but I forgot the exact wording.

  • http://www.santaferanch.com/category/santafe.western_decor.western_artwork/ Western Artwork

    the pile of skulls is so world war 2. they should have made something like a world war 2 museum… :D

  • Bobby

    I visited Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields 10 years ago, and it is an experience that will stay with you forever. The Cambodian people are wonderful and everyone that I talked to had been effected by the genocide in some way.
    I love what the Cambodian Children’s Fund is doing and I plan to help in some way.

  • Janice

    Fortunately, Cambodia is a much safer place now, including its towns and municipalities. But of course, before paying a visit to any unfamiliar place, you might want to research on the place’s safety (http://sihanoukville.info/safety/)