With a three-to-one exchange rate and vibrant, European flair, the South American city of Buenos Aires has made a name for itself as the city to visit. So much so that Matt Lauer made a recent visit!
Buenos Aires is big, bustling and, at times, completely overwhelming (there’s even a 16-lane highway that slashes through the heart of the city!).
But it’s not as hard as you might think to get below its surface of the city. Each neighborhood, or barrio, has its own distinct flavor, making the Argentine capital seem more compact than it is. It’s easy to strike up a conversation with the famously friendly, talkative locals. Whether you want glamour or basics, modern or old-world adventures, chances are you’ll find them by going even just a step off-the-beaten track.
FIRST, THE TANGO
Tango culture is visible throughout Buenos Aires, and the music is alive and kickin’ among the younger Argentines. The Orquestra Típica Fernandez Fierro has revamped the romantic, classical sounds of traditional Argentine music into an avant-garde, passionate fury with a rocker edge. The group’s reputation has earned them loyal followings far as Europe, but in Buenos Aires the vibe is still underground and low-key. Every Wednesday night, music-lovers of all types pack the warehouse-like venue in the popular Abasto district. Start the evening with a tango lesson or simply sit back and sip your Malbec wine. The Orquestra comes on at 11 p.m.—remember that Buenos Aires is a late-night culture, so plan your schedule accordingly! Entrance is AR$20, and tables require a reservation (which you’ll need to make at least several days in advance), or else arrive between 10-10:30 p.m. if you want to grab a seat along the edges. 764 Sanchez de Bustamante, Abasto; www.fernandezfierro.com
If you prefer a more intimate, down-to-earth tango experience, Bar de Roberto is it. A handful of guitarists, accordionists and vocalists play Tuesday through Friday. Locals keep this one quiet and there’s nothing fancy about it, but it’s the place to go for an authentic, up-close-and-personal tango experience. Performances start at about 11 p.m., but you’ll need to get much earlier to get a seat (or even a spot) as this tiny bar fills up quickly. Bulnes 331, at the corner of Perón, Almagro; 54-11-4862-0415
For those wanting to give the tango a try or at least see the real thing, milongas are still very popular, particularly among older generations. The difference between tourists and locals? Tourists show up earlier, not realizing that these activities continue well into the middle of the night, especially on weekends. There are countless milongas around town with countless styles. La Nacional in Congreso is a classic with its nostalgic, old-world feel, with classes starting at 9 p.m. for AR$7 (note that this venue will be closed through the summer). Adolfo Alsina 1465, 54-11-4307-8796, www.la-nacional.com.ar
Tango might get most of the attention, but it isn’t the only musical scene in Buenos Aires. For something completely different, check out La Bomba de Tiempo (The Time Bomb), an outdoor percussion extravaganza held every Monday night (rain or shine) in the courtyard of the Ciudad Cultural Konex. The group of 15 to 20 drummers pound away in a solid two-hour, improvisational session that swells in intensity and features guest performers each week. (The event draws a young, bohemian crowd, so don’t be surprised if you catch a scent of illicit substances.) Just grab a beer at the bar and lose yourself in the beat. Note that there are no seats, only standing room. Tickets are AR$10 at the door, and while the event officially starts at 7 p.m., it really gets going at about 8 p.m. The queue to enter moves quickly, so don’t let that deter you. The Konex theater is located at Sarmiento 3131 in Once/Abasto. www.labombadetiempo.blogspot.com
DINING ARGENTINE STYLE
Ah, the Argentine steak. It’s not hard to find a great steak in Buenos Aires—in fact, it’s probably more difficult to find a bad one. And given the current exchange rate with the U.S. dollar, almost any choice is bound to be inexpensive. If you want a cosmopolitan setting, try Miranda in Palermo Viejo, where classic steak choices abound, as well as the traditional chorizos, morcilla (blood sausage), vegetarian options, and a set lunch deal that’s a particularly good value. Costa Rica 5602; 54-11-4771-4255
Another great option is Dadá in the city center. This colorful, artsy locale serves Argentine cuisine with a modern spin and plenty of cocktails. San Martin 941; 54-11-4314-4787
For the cheapest, most basic options, however, almost any neighborhood parrilla will do. They have all the same staples, but there’s no embellishment in the food or the décor. It all depends on what you’re in the mood for.
Private restaurants are growing in popularity in Buenos Aires, and Casa Felix is an outstanding gourmet gem. Diego Felix, the young and talented chef, and his girlfriend Sanra, offer exceptional cuisine crafted with love and an intimate dining experience (the restaurant only takes 12 reservations per night). For a set price of AR$95 (cash only and excluding wine) you receive an exotic, five-course meal made with organic, local ingredients and herbs from the back garden. Diego and Sanra are happy to stop for a chat and explain the dishes to you, and vegetarian or vegan menus can be requested in advance. Dinners are every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday night and are by reservation only. Casa Felix is in Palermo, and you will receive the address after making a reservation. 54-11-4555-1882, www.diegofelix.com
And don’t be fooled into thinking that Argentine meals are only about steaks and multi-course meals (although that’s half the fun). From wine bars to gelato shops (yes, Italian immigrant brought the sweet treat down south), there’s something for everyone. Stroll through the Las Cañitas area for some of the best gelato shops in town, or taste your way through the incredible wine list at Sucre or its sister restaurant Gran Bar Danzon. Sucre 676; 541147829082, www.proyectarte.org
ART IN THE CITY
Started in New York by two Argentine brothers, ProyectArte is a non-profit organization that connects talented local teens with art classes taught by established Argentine artists. Students have exhibited in the Whitney Museum in New York, and a few have gone on to have solo shows. Galeria Prima, the school’s gallery, opened in July 2007. Stop by to chat with the students, staff, and international interns, make a donation, or even buy a work of art. This is a great way to see what the new generation of Argentine artists is creating and step right into their world. 540 Castillo, Palermo; 54-11-4899-0444, www.proyectarte.org
The Malba Museum (or the Museo Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires) is a must-see. Founded and stocked by art collector Eduardo Costantini, the museum is also a cultural center offering activities and an in-house cinema. The Malba boasts an impressive collection of contemporary works by artists including Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Best of all, admission is free on Wednesday (AR$7 all other times). Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3145; 54-11-4808-6500, www.malba.org.ar
POLITICAL HISTORY
Argentine history is relatively recent, and it’s very much alive throughout the city. Your time is not complete until you’ve gone to the Plaza de Mayo in front of the Casa Rosada to see the Mothers of the Disappeared (Las Madres de la Plaza de Mayo). The Madres have been marching here every Thursday afternoon since 1977 to protest the disappearance of their loved ones under the government between 1976 and 1983. While they don’t regard the current government as an adversary, they continue to march for other social causes and are still a symbol of resistance. History is right in front of you in the Plaza on these Thursday afternoons at 3 p.m. www.madres.org
If you happen to be in San Telmo, walk south on Avenida Paseo de Colón (going towards the freeway), and you’ll see recent discoveries of Argentina’s grim past. By the underpass is a sculpture of bodies climbing out of the ground. This is the site of the “Club Atletico,” a detention center the military government built in 1977 to hold political prisoners and then demolished in 1978 to build the freeway. While the site is certainly an uneasy reminder of the past, being so close to Argentina’s history is a more immediate experience and inspires a stronger respect for how it lives on in the hearts and minds of the people.
Whether you side with those who love her or hate her, the Museo Evita gives you more than the textbook facts about Eva Perón’s life. In this small museum history comes to life with videos, propaganda posters, and the clothes Evita wore on her formal tours. You’ll get a vivid sense of who she was and the legacies she has inspired. Lafinur 2988, between Gutierrez and Las Heras, Palermo; 54-11-4807-0306, www.evitaperon.org/museum
By Sumayya Essack for PeterGreenberg.com.
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