February 7, 2007

My plane landed at the Louis Armstrong Airport at around 4 p.m. last Friday afternoon. The airport was empty. Instead of taking a taxi directly into the city, I decided to take the long way in — through the 9th Ward, St. Bernard Parish and the Lower Garden District.

In the late, gray, cloudy afternoon, the drive was nothing less than haunting. Seventeen months after America’s most devastating storm, the effects are not just visible; they are palpable. House after house still standing, mere shells. No windows, just brown lines marking the high water marks. Still spray-painted on outer walls are the distinctive red letters that listed dead people, dead animals. For much of New Orleans — the New Orleans that most tourists never see — this is a ghost town, where people still live. Bladerunner revisited.

Every other block or so, a FEMA trailer is parked in front of an otherwise abandoned house. And then, the scene repeats, house after house.

The 9th ward, St. Bernard Parish and parts of the Lower Garden District stand in stark contrast to Bourbon Street and the French Quarter, brightly lit — open for business– with the requisite groups of partyers walking the streets with their “go” cups, a few conventioneers, and other tourists. The Superdome has been rebuilt, the convention center is open, and The French Quarter wants the world to know it’s back in business.

But serious problems remain. New Orleans is way down from its pre-Katrina population. A lot of people left, never to return. Most of the iconic restaurants have reopened, but still face serious staffing shortages. The art galleries on Orleans and Royal streets are open, but not crowded.

I didn’t even have to wait for a table to get my obligatory beignet at the legendary Cafe Du Monde. There was no long line at the Central Grocery for my muffaletta sandwich.

It may not be the worst of times, but it is not the best of times either. Dozens of non-governmental organizations are still here, working overtime. And more help — and those who can help — are needed. It’s not just the housing situation, but also the crime, which is way up. And then there is the medical care…Hospitals are stretched to the limits just trying to provide the basic care that any city offers.

But things are also getting better. “People still think we’re under water,” the state’s Lt. Governor, Mitch Landrieu says, “And of course we’re not. In fact the French quarter is cleaner than it’s ever been.”

He’s right about that, but there’s so much more work to be done. It there was ever an American city that cried out for voluntourism, New Orleans is that place. (See below for contact information)

New Orleans is also a perfect example - and an opportunity - of how you can combine a trip to the Crescent City, have a great experience, and help people at the same time. Thanks to Harry Connick, Jr. and Habitat for Humanity, there is now a row of brightly colored houses called “Musicians Village,” where those artists displaced by Katrina now live — and can now return to playing the music that helped make the city famous.

And then, of course, are the legendary restaurants. Did I have an amazingly good meal at August, the restaurant owned and run by John Besh? Absolutely.

A great brunch at Ralphs out at City Park? Indeed.

But I also consumed an indelible impression. I left New Orleans buoyed by hope, not in government, but in people…

Not just the people who live there — those who weathered the storm and who remain — but by the possibilities of what we all can do in making our next choice for a vacation, a convention or business meeting. It’s time to make a statement — to go down, enjoy the Big Easy — but at the same time, do what we can to give something back.

This week marks the beginning of two weeks of celebrations and parades leading up to Fat Tuesday, or Mardi Gras. I can assure you that Mardi Gras will take care of itself. Why not go down to New Orleans after February 20th and start your own festival, by yourself, or with others, to help bring the city back?

To find out how you can help, go to
http://www.volunteerlouisiana.gov or call (866) 286-3835 or (225) 342-3070.

For more on New Orleans, check out “Two Years Later, Two Stories of New Orleans”.

For more, visit our Voluntourism section.

To learn about traveling responsibly, check out our Responsible Travel section.